Landscape FAQ

For anything bigger than a single bed refresh, yes — or you'll regret the planting choices in two years when the shrubs are crowding the windows and the plants are dying because they're in the wrong sun exposure. Even a one-page design saves money long-term.

Small scope: about a week from site visit to plan. Whole-property master plans: 2–4 weeks including one round of feedback.

No. We sell standalone designs that you can use with any installer. Most people end up having us install because we already understand the plan and the site, but we don't require it.

Yes — for larger plans we frequently phase the work. Phase 1 might be hardscape and trees, Phase 2 planting beds and sod, Phase 3 lighting and irrigation. We design so each phase looks finished on its own.

Spring (March–May) and fall (September–November) are prime. Fall is best for trees and shrubs — roots establish through winter ahead of next summer's heat. Summer is fine for established varieties with diligent watering.

Sod is instant lawn — expensive but you have grass the day we leave. Seed is cheap but takes a full growing season to fill in. Hydroseed is a middle option (fiber slurry sprayed with seed and fertilizer). For most Jackson installs, we recommend sod for visible areas and seed for back lots and slopes.

Yes, on installs we've also designed — one-year warranty on plant material when you follow our watering schedule. Stand-alone plant installs (you brought the plants from a nursery) we don't warranty, but we plant them right.

We design with Zone 7b plants: nandina, hollies, hydrangeas (oakleaf and paniculata), dogwoods, redbuds, crepe myrtles, ornamental grasses, hostas in shade, daylilies, and native perennials. We avoid plants that look great in catalogs but struggle with our humid summers or clay soil.

The base. We excavate 8–12 inches below grade, lay 6 inches of compacted crushed stone (in 2-inch lifts, not dumped and rolled), screed bedding sand, install edge restraints, and lock the joints with polymeric sand. Patios that crack early skip the excavation depth or the compaction.

Pavers cost more upfront but last longer, can be repaired (lift the cracked one, replace it), and look better as they weather. Stamped concrete looks great fresh but is harder to repair when (not if) it cracks. We do both, but recommend pavers for most residential.

Generally up to 4 feet (above grade). Over 4 feet requires an engineered design, geogrid reinforcement, and often a permit. We'll tell you what your project needs.

Yes — grill surrounds with proper venting and clearances, countertops in stone or stainless, sometimes a pizza oven. We coordinate with a licensed plumber if you want a sink and gas line.

Once a year for residential, twice for high-visibility commercial. Spring (March–April) is the main refresh; some properties add fall (October–November) for cleanup and winter look.

Natural double-ground hardwood for most residential beds — looks natural, breaks down into soil. Dyed mulch (brown, black) holds color longer for commercial. Pine straw for sloped beds and Southern-style landscapes. Cypress and cedar are premium options with insect-repellent properties.

For commercial properties, yes — full recurring maintenance: mowing, bed care, mulch, seasonal color, tree care. For residential, we typically do seasonal cleanups and mulch refresh rather than weekly mowing.

For active planting beds, usually no — it blocks perennials from spreading and tends to surface over time. For low-plant decorative areas (gravel beds, near hardscape), yes. We advise based on the bed.

Light shaping in late winter — resist the urge to “crepe murder” them (cutting back hard to fence-post stubs every year). Crepe myrtles flower fine with minimal pruning; hard cutbacks shorten their lifespan.

Yes — using a vibratory plow that cuts a thin slit and pulls the pipe through with minimal lawn disturbance. The lawn usually shows minimal trace after a couple of weeks.

For most systems, yes — weather-aware controllers (Hunter Hydrawise, Rachio, Rain Bird ESP-SMT) save 20–40% on water by skipping unnecessary cycles. Pays back in 1–2 seasons on most properties.

Almost always — either with a French drain (subsurface water collection), surface drains tied to a daylight outlet, regrading, or some combination. We diagnose before we quote so we're fixing the actual problem.

Yes — general liability and workers' comp. We can name your management company or HOA as additional insured and send the COI before work starts.

Call (731) 603-9094 or send a quote request. We come out, walk the property, listen to what you want, and write up scope. No obligation, no high-pressure sales.

Cash, check, and major credit cards. For larger residential jobs, half at scheduling and balance on completion. Commercial accounts on net-30 with established credit.

Yes — winter is great for hardscape (patios, walls), tree work (dormant pruning), and design planning for spring. The crew stays busy.